Sunday, January 27, 2013

eating our way through jodhpur

Mel and I agree that Jodhpur was our favorite of the three cities we visited in Rajasthan. What one does in Rajasthan is visit historic forts and eat delicious food—and Jodhpur excels in both these areas.

We spent about a week there and stayed at Heaven Guest House. The food at the guest house was some of the best I’ve had in India—excellent channa masala and subzi. It’s run by a Jain family, and they serve no eggs or meat, so that their food is so good is kind of amazing. 

Speaking of amazing, down the street from the guest house is omelet man. On the outside, this looks like any other Indian omelet stand. But that’s until you taste the omelets. Your average Indian bun omelet (served on something approximating a hamburger bun) is buttery and quite tasty, but this dude’s omelets make you rethink what this breakfast food is capable of. That’s why he has a stream of customers all day and into the night.

If you walk from omelet man’s through Sadar Market, you’ll find another local landmark, the lassi man. Lassi is a sweet drink that has a yogurtish consistency. I’d had it before and not been impressed. But that’s because the lassi I had sucked. A true lassi is almost like eating cheesecake out of a cup.

Now I’m making myself all hungry.

Just in case you thought all we did was eat, we also did a bunch of stuff. Mehrangarh Fort looms over Jodhpur no matter where you go, like a big, giant, looming thing. Inside, it’s simply gorgeous—plenty of beautiful courtyards and miniature paintings.

Jodhpur's known as the blue city, what with all the blue houses. There's a bit of debate as to why they are blue--it's either a caste thing or to protect against termites.

We also took a zip-line tour through the wilderness preserve on the back side of the fort. I thought I would be terrified, but it was actually relaxing and exhilarating at the same time. It’s also the best way to see the city, as you fly high above it. Flying Fox, the company that runs the tours, is based in Switzerland and they do a fantastic job.   

At the Wilderness Preserve
Since we had a lot of time, we also went off the beaten path. We visited the Jodhpur City Museum—the best museum 30 rupees can buy. It's alleges to be a natural history museum and does have a number of stuffed animals. Here are some of its finer exhibits…

These are some birds. They are missing their heads.

Here is a sign...

...and here's the exhibit under the sign.
 After our wonderful Jodhpur visit, Jaipur was a bit of a bust. We did go to City Palace, which was great, if a bit too touristy for our tastes. But then I came down with the flu and we holed up in the hotel for a few days watching the finest in English-language movies on Indian TV. (Armageddon, Fast and the Furious, The Mask wasn't pretty.)


  1. Hahaha. I missed that museum, which was clearly a mistake. I'm glad the sign made it clear that the tigers are strictly fighting and not makin' a baby tiger. Also, sometimes TV is surprising and throws in a gem like Mrs. Doubtfire... if you guys aren't fans, I'm not sure if we can stay friends :)

  2. Two Lions Fighting sounds like a Tai Chi move. It sounds fab.

  3. Actually, I think I caught a bit of Mrs. Doubtfire...